The Betta is one of the most popular fish — and also one of the most controversial among fishkeepers. The debate centers around proper care of a fish that is traditionally kept in unheated containers as small as jars. As with most animals, there are many ways to keep a Betta, depending on the keeper and to some small degree the individual fish. As always, these are general guidelines, and anyone looking into keeping a Betta should focus on the well-being of the fish first and foremost.
Housing
Betta fish natural habitats are ponds and swamp-like bodies of water. They can be found in rice paddies, which are fields that usually flooded with various depths of water. Because these environments are can be quite shallow it has often been argued that Bettas need very little space. This is true to some extent, and Betta breeders are very successful using small jars. However, most people don’t realize that rice paddies and swampy habitats may be shallow, but they are vary dramatically in depth, and are usually expansive in width and length. So, yes, bettas can survive in fish bowls and even jars, but they do much better in larger containers like this one. Many betta enthusiasts refuse to keep their fish in anything less than three gallons. Another reason to use larger tanks is upkeep. Small containers get dirtier faster and build up excess toxins quickly, so they need to have their water changed often, perhaps even daily.
Lastly, Bettas are so popular in part because of their elaborately flowing fins and long tails. However, breeding for these traits has made many varieties very poor swimmers and too strong of a current will stress your fish by continually damaging its fins and making it vulnerable to fin rot. Most filtration will be fine to use or can be reoriented to minimize the flow, but some tanks are designed like Betta death traps, such as this waterfall tank. Such a tank might make a decent display for a few ornamental shrimp, but will kill most fish.
Feeding
Bettas are fairly easy to feed because there is an abundance of betta foods available. Note that any foods you use should be made of ingredients for a carnivorous diet; bettas are primarily insect-eaters. Feeding one brand or type of food or too much at a time sometimes leads to bloating, which pushes on the betta’s swim bladder and makes it float at odd angles. If this happens, a thawed pea, peeled of its shell, can be offered and tends to help un-constipate your fish. Bettas love live or thawed brine shrimp, thawed or dried bloodworms, and even fruit flies. They will do well on quality floating pellets or flakes. A good feeding routine sees the betta eating flakes or pellets twice a day, with live or thawed foods every few days. Avoid feeding more than the betta can eat in about ten minutes to limit excess buildup of wastes.
Tank Mates
The Betta is also called Siamese Fighting Fish with good reason; males are highly territorial and will fight each other on sight. If you want to see this behavior you can place a small mirror against the glass or in the tank briefly and the betta will ‘flare’, or extend its gills and fins, at his own reflection, thinking to protect his territory against an intruder. Never leave a mirror with a betta for long or he will injure himself attacking it. In the wild it is usually simple for a male to back down and find another, unoccupied spot, but in an enclosed tank there is no escape. Add to that decades of intensive breeding for long, showy (but delicate) fins, and putting male bettas together becomes a sure recipe for death. Females may also be very aggressive, but some owners have had success keeping small female-only groups in large aquaria. These betta sororities are not for the beginner.
Contrary to popular belief, bettas can cohabitate with other species. This will vary based on the fish’s temperament, but generally bettas can live with peaceful community fish that have similar requirements. Done right, a single betta can make a brilliant centerpiece for community tanks.
Brightly colored and elaborately finned fish such as fancy guppies should be avoided. These traits will trigger an attack response from bettas. The betta will be least aggressive and less likely to be targeted when the other fish are smaller species than it. Tankmates should not be fin-nippers, since the domestic betta is encumbered about with elaborate, easily damaged finnage. Most any aquatic plant should do well with betta fish. If you provide your betta with a broad -leafed plant such as anubias (or a fake equivalent) he or she will adorably nap on it like a bed. Keeping shrimp with bettas is generally not advisable, unless you intend to provide your fish with a rather expensive meal.
The Heating Debate
There is a lot of discussion about whether Betta fish ought to be heated. Many people point out that their fish do fine without a heater, and others advocate for heating, since bettas come from warm Southeast Asia. I have successfully kept bettas with a heater and without a heater. The important thing isn’t whether a heater is present, but whether the temperature falls into the right parameters. Betta tanks should be between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit and consistent, not swinging rapidly. Note that small tanks make heater use tricky.
